The Big Phra Khanong Guide: Bangkok’s Most Diverse Neighborhood

Sandwiched between the trendy Ekkamai neighbourhood and the popular expat suburb of On Nut, most expats will probably know Phra Khanong for its BTS station, the W-District market and likely little else. However, a little further investigation reveals that the Phra Khanong neighbourhood has a lot more going for it than its rough-and-ready appearance might suggest.

In this article, we’ll break down life in Phra Khanong – where to live, where to eat and where to party if you’ve had enough of W-District. 

Thai Name: Phra Khanong

Transliteration variants: –

Pronunciation: pʰráʔ kʰā.nǒːŋ

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Location  

There are a number of ‘Phra Khanong’s in Bangkok, including a district (khet) and canal. 

However, the neighbourhood popularly known to expats as Phra Khanong (and the one on which we’ll be focussing in this article) is the area surrounding BTS Phra Khanong, in particular Pridi Banomyong Road (Sukhumvit Soi 71) and its surrounding sois. 

Pridi Banomyong (Pridi for short) is a major road connecting Sukhumvit with the Pattanakarn/Petchaburi/Ramkhamheng Road intersection. 

Fun fact: To many Thais the district is best known for the ghostly legend of Mae Nak Phra Khanong – although rather confusingly the shrine to Mae Nak at the Wat Mahabut temple is not, in fact, located in the district of Phra Khanong, but along On Nut Road in the Suan Luang district. 

Pros and Cons of Living in Phra Khanong

Let’s take a quick look at the pros and cons of living here. 

Pros  

•  Inexpensive, yet Centrally Located – Prices in Phra Khanong are more reasonable than those in neighbouring Ekkamai or Thong Lor, despite being just one BTS station further along Sukhumvit Road.
• Diverse Community: Phra Khanong is one of Bangkok’s more cosmopolitan neighbourhoods, with Islamic, Filipino, Indian, Japanese, Western and (of course) Thai communities living side-by-side.
• Great Transport Links: With the BTS at one end of the neighbourhood and the Airport Link at the other (and regular buses/minivans shuttling between the two), getting from Phra Khanong to just about anywhere else in the city is a doddle. For drivers, you can also get on the Chalong Rat Expressway from Pridi Banomyong Soi 2.
• Plenty of Local Amenities: You can find just about everything you need in the Phra Khanong area, from fitness centres to car washers. There’s a sizable Macros/MaxValu for groceries, and the Summer Hill mall at BTS Phra Khanong for higher-end stuff. There’s also a large local wet market for dirt-cheap essentials.

Cons  

• Traffic: Inevitably as with any other central Bangkok neighbourhoods, traffic is a fact of life in Phra Khanong. Getting out of the side-sois on to Pridi Banomyong can take an excruciatingly long time most mornings, unless you’re willing to set off for work really early. 
• Not Much to Look At: Compared to Ekkamai’s trendy coffee shops and flash new condo blocks, much of Phra Khanong looks a little down-at-heel – you’d be forgiven for thinking it was an area made up mainly of run-down office blocks and motorcycle repair shops at first glance.
• Not Particularly Family Friendly: With a distinct lack of green spaces, moo baans (gated housing villages) or pushchair-friendly pavements, living in Phra Khanong can be hard work for those with young families.

Accommodation in Phra Khanong

The bulk of decent apartments in Phra Khanong are clustered around BTS Phra Khanong on Sukhumvit Road. On average, accommodation here is cheaper than in neighbouring Ekkamai, but prices do rise in the Ekkamai-adjacent sois. 

Modern but Small Condos

For single expats/couples who just need a place to crash for the night, there are plenty of inexpensive small condos in Phra Khanong. These include:

Life @ Sukhumvit 65

• THB 11,000 to THB 30,000 /month for a one-bedroom unit 30 – 55 sqm
• THB 22,000 to THB 50,000 /month for a two-bedroom unit 50 – 65 sqm

WYNE Sukhumvit

• THB 12,000 to THB 30,000 /month for a one-bedroom unit 30 – 45 sqm
• THB 25,000 to THB 35,000 /month for a two-bedroom unit 60 – 75 sqm

The Bloom Sukhumvit 71

• THB 12,000 to THB 25,000 /month for a one-bedroom unit 35 – 47 sqm
• THB 18,000 to THB 42,000 /month for a two-bedroom unit 45 – 90 sqm

Bigger, Older, Affordable Condos  

Hope Land Sukhumvit 46/1

• THB 39,000 to THB 52,000 /month for a one-bedroom unit 42 – 52 sqm
• THB 55,000 to THB 60,000 /month for a two-bedroom unit 65 sqm

Vista Garden

• THB 14,000 to THB 25,000 /month for a one-bedroom unit 45 – 55 sqm
• THB 25,000 to THB 30,000 /month for a two-bedroom unit 65 – 75 sqm
• THB 50,000 /month for a three-bedroom unit 124 spm
• THB 250,000 to THB 450,000 /month for a four-bedroom unit 190 – 250 sqm

Sky Walk Residences

• THB 17,000 to THB 45,000 /month for a one-bedroom unit 35 – 65 sqm
• THB 30,000 to THB 70,000 /month for a two-bedroom unit 60 – 110 sqm
• THB 50,000 to THB 180,000  /month for a three-bedroom unit 100 – 220 spm

Townhouses and Gated Communities  

Baan Sansiri Sukhumvit 67

• THB 220,000 /month for a three-bedroom unit 400 sqm
• THB 100,000 to THB 450,000 /month for a four-bedroom unit 340 – 560 sqm

Super Budget Condos 

• Zenith Place – A 34 sqm condo can be found for THB10,000 /month.
• Happy Place Tower – A 26 – 30 sqm condo can be found for THB9,000 /month.
• Sukhumvit Plus – A 30 sqm condo can be found for THB10,000 /month.

Dining Out in Phra Khanong

As one might expect for a neighbourhood in Bangkok, there are plenty of options for eating in Phra Khanong. Phra Khanong is a highly-diverse area, so there are all sorts of options beyond your standard Thai street food (although there’s plenty of that, too).

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Street Food  

Pridi Banomyong Soi 2 (which backs on to the wet market) is the street-food nexus of the Phra Khanong area. Food carts line both sides of the street all day and well into the evening, selling classic Thai favourites such as khao pad (fried rice), som tam (papaya salad) and khao mun kai (chicken rice), among many others. 

For those who live further down Pridi Banomyong, there’s also Suk 71 Plaza, a sizable night market largely aimed at locals. All the usual Thai night market treats are available, plus ample outdoor seating if you want to kick back with a few 7/11 beers while you eat. 

Located between Pridi 24 and 26 (near St Andrews International School). 

Popular Dining Spots  

W-Market

W-Market – located within the W-District area – is a local night market/beer garden popular with expats. The cuisine served here is a lot more international than your standard Thai night market, with everything from piri-piri chicken to American-style BBQ all available to be served at your table alongside a tall, frosty Singha.

Wraptor

Located on the corner of Pridi 14, Wraptor specialises in (as the name might suggest) wraps, but they also offer plenty of other delicious fast-food options such as quesadillas, tacos and potato wedges. All food is reasonably priced and very generously portioned. 

Abiy’s Kitchen

A cosy izakaya also located on Pridi 14, Abiy’s is a great place to stop by for some late-night yakitori. For adventurous eaters, they are one of the few restaurants in Bangkok to offer chicken sashimi (yes, that’s exactly what it sounds like). 

Bangkok Bob’s

A famous speciality supermarket, Bangkok Bob’s also has an open-plan kitchen area where you can order up some truly excellent flame-grilled burgers and steaks. Located between Pridi 35 and 37. 

Kogi Jip

No-frills three-storey Korean BBQ restaurant on the corner of Pridi Banomyong and Sukhumvit Road. Great for when you’re craving some charcoal-grilled pork and kimchi.

Royal Masala Indian Food

Cheap, cheerful yet delicious Indian restaurant, tucked away down a Pridi Banomyong back alley called Suk U-Thit (almost immediately off Sukhumvit Road). All the usual Indian favourites such as butter chicken and mutton curry are available.

Goose Cafe

Fancy Western cafe, located on the corner of Pridi Soi 1 (Edison Alley) near W-District. The pulled beef sandwiches are highly recommended if you want a greasy (yet delicious) snack. 

Featherstone

Gorgeously-decored restaurant/coffee shop, located on Pridi 31. Food is Western – pizzas, pastas etc. Pricey but tasty. 

Thuyen

Spacious Vietnamese restaurant, located on Pridi 37. Usual Vietnamese favourites available (pho, spring rolls etc). Food is fresh and inexpensive. 

For coffee shops, Karo Coffee Roasters and Polli’s (both on Pridi 26) are excellent choices.

For bakeries, there’s the much-beloved Conkey’s on Pridi 41 and Holey Mothership on Pridi 14 – both also do a nice cup of coffee in addition to some truly sublime baked goods.

Drinking in Phra Khanong

Phra Khanong is probably best known amongst expats for the W-District beer garden, and it is indeed a nice place to sit with a few friends and a few drinks. But it’s far from all that the area has to offer. Here are some other options:

Popular Bars and Pubs  

KOSMO – Low-key expat-friendly bar next to W-District, serving popular Western bar snacks and a good range of beers. Has a popular happy hour from 5 till 7pm (12pm to 7pm at the weekend).

Goja – Super trendy bar-slash-gallery space specialising in sake, located on Pridi 1 (behind W-District). Music is classic hip-hop with live DJs. 

PJ O’Briens – Classic Irish pub located on Sukhumvit Road, about five minutes from BTS Phra Khanong. If you’ve ever been in an Irish pub before, you’ll know what to expect. Surprisingly excellent pizzas, and live music on the weekends.

Cielo Sky Bar – Chilled-out sky bar, located on the 46th floor of the Sky Walk Residences condo (next to W-District). More reasonably-priced than its downtown counterparts like Lebua, and its location on the outskirts of the CBD means you get some pretty impressive uninterrupted views of the Bangkok suburbs.

Chit Hole – Amusingly-named outpost of the popular Koh Kret-based Chit Beer brewery, located in a small shophouse on Pridi 14. Huge range of homemade craft beers for just about every palate. A little pricey (as craft beer in Bangkok tends to be) and can get very crowded at the weekend, so try to get there early.

The Rover’s – Old-school, back-to-basics expat bar located on Pridi 2. Inexpensive beers, lovely staff and a friendly clientele. Great place to stop by if you’re new to the area and want to make some fast friends.

Pridi Soi 3 – Pridi Soi 3 is home to a cluster of small, cosy karaoke bars, mostly catering to Japanese expats. Propping up the bar and passing the mic in one of these places can be a fun way to end an evening out with friends. Many provide free classic Japanese bar snacks, like edamame peas. 

Groceries in Phra Khanong

If you’d prefer to cook at home, you’re more than adequately covered when it comes to groceries in Phra Khanong:

Fresh Markets  

The Saeng Thip Fresh Market occupies a seemingly endless labyrinth of backstreets between Sukhumvit Road and Pridi 2, selling just about every kind of produce you can think of for the usual rock-bottom prices. Plenty of fruit, veggies, Thai snacks and desserts and so on.

Supermarkets  

Makro – There’s a branch of the popular Horeca wholesaler just before Pridi 9. Good for stocking up on big portions of the essentials.

MaxValu – Located opposite Macro, inside a small plaza with a few popular chain restaurants (MK, KFC, Yayoi etc.) Comparatively small branch, but okay for stocking up on a few odds-and-ends. 

Tops – There are several Daily branches of Tops in Phra Khanong – one at the Summer Hill mall (next to BTS Phra Khanong), one in the Saeng Thip Market and one each on Pridi 26 and 45. Small and lacking the usual imported goods that make the standard Tops supermarkets stand out, but okay for essentials if you can’t find a 7/11. 

Transportation Options for Phra Khanong

As stated above, there are plenty of options for getting around in Phra Khanong. These include:

Mass Transit

The nearest BTS skytrain station is (unsurprisingly) Phra Khanong. Phra Khanong is the eighth station on the Sukhumvit Line (East), which means it’s eight stops (or around fifteen to twenty minutes) to the central hub station at Siam. The nearest MRT station is at Asok, which is four stops away. 

At the opposite end of Pridi Banomyong is the Ramkhamhaeng Airport Link Station, which connects the district with Suvarnabhumi Airport and the central Makkasan/Rama 9 areas.  

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Motorbike Taxis

There is a big win motorcycle taxi rank at the corner of Sukhumvit 69, next to the Phra Khanong Post Office – about a three minutes’ walk from BTS Phra Khanong. You’ll be able to spot them by their orange vests. 

A ride to any destination along Pridi Banomyong will cost between THB20 to THB50, depending on how far along you plan to travel – there’s a poster with fares on the wall of the Post Office next to the rank (although destinations are written in Thai script). 

Simply get in the queue, wait your turn, tell the driver your destination and pay him at the end of your trip.

Taxis, and Ride Hailing 

Meter taxis run regularly along both Sukhumvit and Pridi Banomyong roads – simply flag one down as you would anywhere else in Bangkok. If your Thai is not up to scratch, Grab and Bolt taxis are also common (although it can be hard to get one when the weather is bad and/or it’s rush hour).

Buses and Songthaews  

The big orange number 71 bus runs from BTS Phra Khanong right the way down Pridi Banomyong Road. It’s easy to remember, as it shares its number with Pridi Banomyong’s soi number (Sukhumvit 71). 

There’s a bus stop outside the Summer Point mall, about two minutes’ walk from BTS Phra Khanong on the W-District/Post Office side of the road. 

There are regular small songthaews that run from the BTS along Pridi – you can recognise them as the small, squat converted minivans with benches in the back. You can get on the songthaew beneath Exit 3 of BTS Phra Khanong – look for the inevitable queue of long-suffering commuters. 

The songthaew charges a flat rate of THB8, and does a full loop of Pridi Banomyong Road and then back to the BTS – simply ring the buzzer when you’re ready to get off and give your money to the driver. Be warned, however – it can get awfully sweaty back there.

Healthcare in Phra Khanong  

The Phra Khanong area isn’t exactly inundated with medical centres. Here’s what’s available:

Hospitals  

There are no hospitals in the Phra Khanong area proper. 

The nearest quality private hospitals are Sukhumvit Hospital, located at Ekkamai station (one BTS stop away) and Camillian Hospital, located at the far end of Thong Lor (a 10 – 15 minute taxi ride away).

Clinics  

There is only one clinic in the Phra Khanong area proper, which is Dr Thanabool’s just off Pridi 37. It’s pretty old-school, but fine for picking up some medication for mild complaints like a cold or a touch of food-poisoning. 

Dentists  

U-Smile is a very good (and very reasonably priced) dentist, located just after Pridi 33. For more serious jobs, you may want to consider the Dental Hospital, located in the T77 Community (at the end of Pridi 2). 

Be warned, however – it certainly won’t come cheap!

Veterinarians 

There is one veterinary hospital on Pridi, Pattanawech Animal Hospital just after Pridi 23. For general care for your beloved mutts, Puenpet on Pridi 26 is a very swank dog hotel, complete with a swimming pool for your furry friends.

International Schools in Phra Khanong

There are a couple of international schools in Phra Khanong, namely:

St Andrews International School, Bangkok – Well-regarded British curriculum international school, located on Pridi 22. Offers all-through education from early years to senior studies (ages 2 to 18). 

OISCA International School & Nursery – Kindergarten and early years (up to Year 2) school, follows the Japanese OISCA (Organisation for Industrial, Spiritual and Cultural Achievement) curriculum. Located on Pridi 36. 

Parks in Phra Khanong

If there’s one thing Phra Khanong is severely lacking, it’s anything even remotely resembling green space. Your best bet if you’re craving some nature is to take a 10-minute taxi ride from BTS Phra Khanong to Wat Khlong Toei Nok pier. 

From there you can take a longtail boat across the river to Bang Kachao, Bangkok’s famous ‘green lung’ – a large neighbourhood where development has been severely restricted, leaving much of the area still nicely blanketed in dense greenery. 

For a nice afternoon out, consider hiring a bicycle from one of the many bicycle-hire shops near the pier and riding out to Sri Nakhon Khuean Park and Botanical Garden, a sizeable park with lots of pleasingly-overgrown jungle trails to explore. There are plenty of coffee shops at which to stop for a little refreshment on the way.

Related article: The Big List of Parks in Bangkok: The Best Parks, The Biggest, The Secret Gardens

Other Standout Venues and Features

XSPACE Gallery – Trendy modern art gallery, located in an out-the-way location at the end of Pridi 14. Entrance is free. They hold occasional popular events such as displays by artists like Newyear.  

Theater of Dream Warriors Ice Arena – Decent-sized ice hockey/ice skating arena, located on Pridi 37. You can block-book a 3-hour session for THB450, or an all-day pass for THB800.

Trackaddict Records – Ultra-cool vinyl record store and cafe, located in a converted shipping container. Beer and cocktails are also available, with a charming outdoor space in which to drink them. Tucked away down an easy-to-miss soi off Pridi 42.

Should You Live in Phra Khanong?

Phra Khanong is a rather unfairly overlooked neighbourhood in many ways. Sandwiched between the better-known Ekkamai and On Nut areas, it is frequently considered a place you pass through to get elsewhere – a name and number on the BTS line and little else. 

However, this is arguably its greatest strength. Some of the positives include:

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• Excellent proximity to downtown Bangkok (and all its amenities)
• Great public transport links 
• A wide range of entertainment and plenty of hidden gems 
• More reasonably priced accomodation than Ekkamai or Thong Lor.

On the other hand, it’s not an ideal place for expats with families. Downsides include: 

• Congested main roads 
• Little-to-no green space 
• Only a handful of international schools 

These all make it a difficult place to raise kids compared to the suburbs a little further out of town. 

All in all, if you’re a young expat with adventurous taste and a tight budget, Phra Khanong is an excellent base-of-operations to experience the city from. 

But if you’re looking for something a bit more spacious and family-friendly, consider looking elsewhere. Lasalle is a good option.