Retiring in San Miguel de Allende: Living Cost, Lifestyle, and More

Retiring in San Miguel de Allende: Living Cost, Lifestyle, and More

Have you ever dreamed of living in a city with a designated UNESCO World Heritage site? San Miguel de Allende is just that place, where you can enjoy stunning views of historic colonial architecture in downtown and throughout the city.

San Miguel de Allende is also an expat haven where the locals treat you like one of their own. 

With around 14,000 American expats in the greater San Miguel de Allende area, the sizable community can make settling in as a new retiree much easier. Living in San Miguel de Allende offers a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in Mexican culture, cuisine, traditions, and art — all in a beautiful setting.

Let’s take an in-depth look at what it’s like to retire here. 

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Location

San Miguel de Allende is located in the state of Guanajuato, 119 km (74 miles) east of the city of Guanajuato. Its central location offers convenient access to major cities, with Mexico City 288 km (179 miles) to the southwest and Queretaro just 64 km (40 miles) away.

San Miguel de Allende map
While San Miguel de Allende doesn’t have an international airport, it boasts a sizable American expat community in this charming city.

Promoted by American artist and writer Stirling Dickinson in 1937, San Miguel de Allende began attracting American retirees shortly after World War II.

The town is known for its Baroque and Neoclassical-style churches and homes, wrought-iron accents, and enticing aromas from street vendors to upscale restaurants.

One drawback to consider is the lack of a local international airport; for international travel, you’ll need to head to Mexico City, Queretaro, or Leon, Guanajuato. Travel time to these airports ranges from one to five hours, depending on traffic and time of day.

Weather

Weather makes San Miguel de Allende a popular option for expats to retire in Mexico. The city is perched at 6,500 feet above sea level, which makes for a mild weather year-round. 

Average summer temperatures range between 71°F (27°C) during the day and 57°F (14°C) at night. Winter temperatures are similarly mild, with daytime averages around 71°F (27°C) and nighttime lows of about 45°F (7°C).

Winter months can occasionally bring colder temperatures, and the heaviest rainfall occurs from June to September, with an average of 4 inches (100 mm).

Living in San Miguel de Allende allows you to experience a distinct change of seasons, which is a definite plus for many.

Food

San Miguel de Allende provides retirees in Mexico with a vibrant lifestyle, complete with many modern conveniences. The city boasts an abundance of restaurants offering cuisine from around the world.

American fast-food outlets are available, with combo meals costing around US$7.00. For international flavors, there’s a wide variety to enjoy, from Chinese and Spanish to French, nouvelle, and steakhouses.

Dining options range from casual to fine dining, with prices between US$10 and US$50 per person.

San miguel de allende church
San Miguel de Allende, a UNESCO World Heritage site, offers stunning historic colonial architecture both downtown and throughout the city.

Centrally located options include Zumo, Casa Nostra, El Pato Barbacoa Y Mixiotes, and Quince

Street vendors offer a variety of affordable goodies, from tacos and hamburgers to tamales, priced between US$1 and US$4 per item. Tacos San Francisco/Andy’s Taco Cart is a popular favorite among locals and visitors alike.

San Miguel de Allende offers a variety of grocery shopping options, including large chains such as Soriana, City Market, and La Comer, which resemble those found in the U.S.

For specialty items, check out stores like La Sabina, Finca Luna Serena, and Pescaderia. Local markets, such as Ignacio Ramirez Market and San Miguel Market, are also affordable places to shop.

On average, you can expect to spend about 25–30% less on groceries than you would in the U.S.

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Housing and Neighborhood

San Miguel de Allende boasts a wide variety of housing options for almost every budget. 

El Centro Historico (Central Area)

In the central area or El Centro Historico, you will be astonished by the architectural features of the buildings, which were mostly constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries. 

Behind large walls, homes have intricate gardens with fountains and courtyards. 

The area is typically bustling with activity and offers easy walking access to a variety of amenities, including restaurants, parks, markets, and shopping malls.

One of the most desirable neighborhoods is the hillside surrounding El Centro Historico, near Juarez Park and the Ignacio Ramirez Market. This area offers sweeping views, luxurious properties, and high-end homes, making it popular with both renters and buyers.

Rental prices range from around US$1,000 for a studio or one-bedroom apartment to upwards of US$3,000 for a three-bedroom home.

A bonus of living here is that transportation isn’t necessary, as almost everything is within walking distance.

San Antonio

Another superb neighborhood that is within walking distance to El Centro Historico is San Antonio.

This neighborhood is popular with families, artists, and international students attending the Instituto Allende, a renowned art school. It has a distinct Mexican vibe, with street murals and an art walk, along with a variety of amenities including shops, cafes, and markets.

Rent here ranges from around US$500 for a one-bedroom apartment to about US$2,000 for a three-bedroom home.

Los Arcos

Atascadero, also known as Los Arcos, offers an upscale, hillside setting around San Miguel de Allende.

This peaceful neighborhood features panoramic views of the city and surrounding landscape. Many expats have purchased homes in gated communities here, enjoying amenities such as swimming pools, gyms, and added privacy.

Roof Patio of House
You can relax and take in the views from the roof patioin San Miguel de Allende. Image credit: Greg Johnson

Homes are generally spacious, showcasing a mix of architectural styles and modern features such as on-demand hot water, gas fireplaces, upgraded windows, and large gardens.

Expect to pay around US$2,000 for a three-bedroom home.

One drawback is that a vehicle is essential for daily errands and entertainment.

Guadiana 

The Guadiana neighborhood, known for its tree-lined streets, is within walking distance of El Centro Historico and is popular among American expats.

This area offers ample parks, green spaces, and a peaceful atmosphere, with easy access to cultural events, shopping, and dining.

Rent here typically costs around US$700 for a one-bedroom apartment, while three-bedroom homes range from US$1,500 to US$2,000.

Good to Know

When considering housing, be sure to account for utilities, housekeepers, and gardeners. Monthly costs typically include around US$20 for gas, US$10–30 for water, and electricity billed every two months, which can range from US$25 to US$100 depending on your use of air conditioning and portable heaters in the winter.

High-speed internet costs between US$25 and US$40 per month, depending on your service provider. Housekeepers charge about US$4.50 per hour, and gardeners are similarly priced.

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As a general guideline, if you have transportation and choose to live outside the central area of San Miguel de Allende, you’ll likely find more affordable housing options without sacrificing amenities.

Healthcare

San Miguel de Allende offers exceptional healthcare options for retirees in Mexico.

The city boasts a modern healthcare system equipped with the latest technology, advanced medical procedures, comprehensive dental care, and reliable hospital services.

However, you may find that some facilities or appointments do not always operate as seamlessly as those in your home country.

Fortunately, many doctors, dentists, and specialists here are fluent in English, so language barriers are typically minimal, mainly arising during appointment scheduling or at the front desk.

Public Hospitals

The main public hospital in San Miguel de Allende for IMSS patients is General Hospital Dr. Felipe G. Dobarganes and features state-of-the-art medical equipment. 

While you can receive care for all types of illnesses including emergency and life-threatening health issues, it might not be the best option if you can’t speak Spanish.

Private Hospitals

There are two private hospitals in San Miguel de Allende that offer bilingual doctors and staff. The newest of these is Hospital Joya San Miguel, which opened in 2021. The hospital is part of a hospital chain that has facilities in Puerto Vallarta, Queretaro, Cancun, and Riviera Nayarit. Patients rave about the first-rate medical services found at this hospital. 

Hospital Joya - San Miguel de Allende
You can get a good healthcare at Hospital Joya San Miguel, which recently opened in 2021.

The hospital provides a comprehensive range of services, including general practice, cardiology, respiratory care, and intensive care units, with over 20 medical specialists on staff.

The Hospital MAC San Miguel de Allende opened in 2017 and is also operated by a hospital chain with eight other hospitals in Mexico. Their medical equipment is state-of-the-art, and they offer coverage with several private insurance companies that specialize in American expats. 

The facilities feature bilingual staff and doctors, including over 20 specialists covering a range of areas from infant care and viral diseases to respiratory and cardiology services.

Dentists

Dental work in San Miguel de Allende is quite affordable, with costs typically 50% lower than in the U.S., and most dentists are fluent in English.

Some top choices for expats include Dr. Karla Carter, Grupo Dental Nieto, Benedent, and Clinica Dental SMA, which has been serving the community for 30 years.

Activities

Retirees in San Miguel de Allende have an abundance of activities to keep them going strong. 

The city boasts plenty of natural open spaces for residents to enjoy while walking and biking, with popular spots including Parque Benito Juarez, Valle de los Senderos, and Rancho Las Sabinas.

Exploring the area on foot is delightful, featuring a blend of colonial architectural styles, brightly painted homes, and businesses that adhere to strict historic preservation guidelines.

While your feet might tire from walking on flagstone or cobblestone streets, your senses will be invigorated by the vibrant sights and sounds of the city, including the allure of large wooden doors and Spanish-style architecture.

However, El Centro Historico offers more than just stunning architecture; it also features five parks, a lively business community, and ample shopping opportunities.

The historic architecture in the city center captivates all who visit, featuring several churches and numerous buildings constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries. One could easily spend a lifetime admiring the intricate details of these structures.

  • Golf: San Miguel de Allende features the Malanquin Golf Club and the newer Las Ventanas Golf Club, where you can expect fees around US$150, including a required caddy. 
  • Bird watching: You can also enjoy birdwatching at locations such as El Charco and Canada de la Virgen.
  • Hot spring: Outside El Centro Historico, you can spend a day at hot springs like The Mayan Baths, La Gruta or Escondido Place.
  • Wellness: The area offers a plethora of health and wellness centers providing massages, holistic treatments, and spas to help you unwind.
  • Cultural festivals: The city comes alive with festivals throughout the year, celebrating occasions from the holiday season and Mexican Independence Day to the feast of the Archangel Michael, Día de los Muertos around Halloween, Christmas and New Year’s, and Holy Week during Easter. 

These festivals are all unique, offering American expats a cultural experience that is second-to-none.

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  • Music festivals: San Miguel de Allende hosts various music festivals, including a Chamber Music Festival every August and a Jazz and Blues Festival in November. The city is also home to a symphony orchestra, which offers several performances throughout the year.
  • Public library: Biblioteca Publica, a public library, houses the second-largest English language book library in the country. It also features a welcoming community center where American expats gather to enjoy coffee and engage in craft-making activities with locals.

There are also many groups you can join including the Rotary Club and San Miguel de Allende Book Club. You can also volunteer at an animal shelter or the Red Cross.

Transportation

There are several modes of transportation in San Miguel de Allende. In the central area, many residents opt to walk to nearby restaurants, local markets, and nightlife venues.

Car

If you live outside the central area of San Miguel de Allende, having a car can be quite convenient. The main roads, including highways and thoroughfares, are generally in good condition, constructed from concrete, asphalt, or a combination of both, with minimal potholes.

While there are plenty of gas stations along the major thoroughfares, they are scarce in the central area.

Driving in the central district can be challenging, as you’ll encounter narrow one-way streets, often paved with cobblestones.

These cobblestone roads can be tough on your vehicle, so regular maintenance on tires and other parts is advisable.

Additionally, parking can be limited in this bustling area.

Bus

Getting around San Miguel de Allende by bus is convenient and user-friendly.

Several bus lines serve specific neighborhoods and shopping destinations, making it easy to navigate the city. Most routes are clearly marked, with stops at major landmarks such as the local market, shopping centers, and parks.

Taxi

You may opt to hire a taxi for shopping trips or to reach specific destinations within San Miguel de Allende. Taxis are readily available at nearly every street corner.

Taxi in San Miguel de Allende
Taxis in San Miguel de Allende offer a convenient and affordable way to get around the city. Image credit: Greg Johnson

Fares vary depending on your destination but are generally reasonable, typically costing less than US$5 for a one-way ride.

Airport

One drawback of transportation in San Miguel de Allende is that you must travel to either Queretaro, Leon, or Mexico City for international flights, with travel times ranging from one to four hours.

That said, transportation to these locations is generally affordable.

Safety

You’ll feel safe living in San Miguel de Allende. While crime has increased over the past five years, this statistic also takes into account overall crime in the city.

The downtown area is typically bustling with visitors, locals, and expats, which contributes to a sense of safety even in the evening.

According to Numbeo, over 80% of residents feel comfortable walking alone during the day in San Miguel de Allende. However, outside the central area — where there is a greater presence of police officers and private security — this comfort level drops to about 60% in the evening.

Moderate crime rates in San Miguel de Allende include home break-ins, stolen vehicles, muggings, and armed robbery, while vandalism, bribery, and petty theft are the most common issues reported.

A reassuring aspect is that many police officers in San Miguel de Allende are fluent in English, so language barriers are not typically a concern in case of emergencies.

How Much Do I Need to Retire in San Miguel de Allende?

You’ll need a minimum monthly income of US$1,850 to live comfortably in San Miguel de Allende. Keep in mind that you will spend most of your budget on rent and groceries. 

The actual cost of living may fluctuate based on currency exchange rates.

The graph below provides a breakdown of living costs across specific categories.

cost of retiring in San Miguel de Allende chart.

Should I Retire in San Miguel de Allende?

Here are a few pros and cons to consider about moving and living in San Miguel de Allende.

Pros

  • You will enjoy a climate that allows you to experience the change of seasons, with moderate temperatures in the summer and cooler weather in the winter, accompanied by very little rain.
  • The city has a well-established expat community, providing a sense of connection.
  • Access to healthcare, shopping, and restaurants will remind you of the USA.
  • As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Miguel de Allende features incredible architecture and a wealth of cultural events and activities to keep you engaged. The city center is also highly walkable and safe.

Cons

  • There is no international airport, so you’ll need to travel to Queretaro, Leon, or Mexico City for international flights.
  • The cost of housing has risen in recent years, making it difficult for some to find affordable options.
  • A moderate level of Spanish proficiency is advisable. While many locals speak English, navigating public transportation will require some understanding of Spanish.
Daniel James Shosky
Daniel James Shosky is a freelance writer and historian who has resided in Mexico for the last 10 years. He’s traveled extensively around Central America and throughout Mexico absorbing the unique cultural traditions of each place he visits. He holds a master’s degree in history and a graduate certificate in historic preservation from the University of Colorado Denver.
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