The island of Cozumel is an ideal place to retire in Mexico.
The island holds great significance in Mayan culture, as it is considered the sacred home of Ixchel, the Mayan Moon Goddess of Fertility. The Spanish first arrived in Cozumel in 1518, and the town of San Miguel de Cozumel was officially founded in 1849.
Tourism and the arrival of American expats saw a major boost after Jacques Cousteau filmed a documentary showcasing the vibrant marine life in the Caribbean waters surrounding the island.
Soon after, Cozumel became a haven for scuba divers, many of whom were American citizens who chose not to return to the USA.
When you retire in Cozumel, you’ll enjoy all the conveniences of modern living, along with the relaxed island lifestyle. The area offers a variety of land and water activities, rich cultural experiences, and a lively American expat community.
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Contents
Location
Cozumel, an island in the state of Quintana Roo, is surrounded by the Caribbean Sea and enjoys a tropical savanna climate. It’s the largest Mexican island located in the Caribbean Sea and the third largest island in the country. Cozumel is located 12 miles (19 km) east of the Yucatan Peninsula and Playa del Carmen, and 51 miles (82 km) south of Cancun.
The Caribbean Sea surrounding the island is unique and is part of the second largest coral reef in the world, the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System. The coral reef stretches for 630 miles (1,000 km) across the sea floor.
Thanks to Cousteau’s documentary, the coral reef systems surrounding Cozumel are now protected and part of the UNESCO Isla Cozumel Biosphere Reserve.
Population
Cozumel’s total population is approximately 95,000, with 88,000 residents living in San Miguel. The expat community has been present since World War II and grew significantly after Jacques Cousteau’s documentary.
Today, the American expat community numbers around 4,000, with about 1,500 living there year-round.
Weather
The island of Cozumel enjoys a stable climate year-round, though it tends to be humid.
You can expect the following average temperatures:
- In summer, temperatures range between 90°F (33°C) and 75°F (23°C).
- In winter, they range between 83°F (28°C) and 70°F (20°C).
Cozumel’s dry season is short, lasting from January to April, with an average rainfall of about 1.75 inches (44 mm) per month.
Rainfall increases significantly from June through October, with monthly averages ranging from 7 inches (185 mm) in June to 9.5 inches (240 mm) in September and October.
Cozumel is also vulnerable to hurricanes, tropical storms, and tropical depressions. The last major hurricane to hit the island directly was Hurricane Wilma in 2005. Since then, other storms have passed quickly with no significant damage to infrastructure.
Food
Living in San Miguel de Cozumel offers the convenience of big-city amenities in a small, compact area. During the high season, when multiple cruise ships arrive daily, locals often take the opportunity to do their grocery shopping.
You’ll discover hidden gems where locals dine, away from the tourist crowds that visit for the day.
In the evenings, the island takes on a more tranquil atmosphere, with only locals strolling the streets, enjoying live music, and savoring their favorite dishes.
Fast food options on Cozumel are limited, with combo meals costing around $10 USD. However, you’ll find tucked-away spots serving quick bites like burgers, hot dogs, and street tacos for about $7 USD.
Some of the best quick bites under $10 USD can be found at the Lobster Shack, known for its delicious Northeastern-style lobster roll sandwiches, and Burritos Gorditos where you can enjoy Chipotle-style burritos, bowls, and Mexican tortas.
San Miguel de Cozumel offers an abundance of dining options, from casual meals priced at $20–$30 USD to fine dining experiences ranging from $30–$50 USD.
For casual dining, you’ll find a variety of enjoyable options in San Miguel de Cozumel. Casa Mission offers charming courtyard dining with fountains, La Cocay specializes in seafood, Pescaderia San Carlos is known for its fish tacos, and La Casita de Indio 333 serves authentic Mexican, Latin, and Caribbean dishes.
For high-end fine dining in the US$30-50 range, you can enjoy delicious Mayan dishes at Ix Kool Mayan, contemporary cuisine at Buccanos at night, or a variety of dishes at Guido’s from pasta to steaks.
Grocery shopping in Cozumel is convenient, with several national chains such as Mega, Soriana, Chedraui, Bodega Aurrera, and a Sam’s Club covering all your everyday needs. For imported specialty items, La Tienda Guidos has you covered.
For groceries, the Mercado Municipal is a must-stop shop. Here, you’ll find fresh seafood, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables. Stop by around lunchtime to enjoy authentic Indian, Filipino, and other Asian cuisine typically prepared for cruise ships crews.
While living on an island usually means higher food costs, Cozumel’s bustling tourism industry helps keep prices about 15–20% lower than in the U.S.
Housing and Neighborhoods
While you’re living on the island, you’ll find a wide variety of affordable housing options, with neighborhoods that are ideal for retirement plans across all budget ranges.
The best options are in San Miguel de Cozumel, where most expats live.
The Central Area/Downtown
The Central Area/Downtown consists of several neighborhoods that offer attractive housing options.
A major benefit of living here is the convenience of walking to grocery stores, restaurants, the town center, and the Malecon.
In this area, you’ll find a studio for US$400 or a one-bedroom apartment for around US$1,000. Larger houses with courtyards and walls are also available, typically costing US$1,800 or more.
10 de April
The 10 de April neighborhood, located just north of downtown, offers a variety of housing options.
Its convenient location allows for a quick walk to shops, restaurants, and the northern part of the Malecon. It’s also only a five-minute walk to the ferry terminal to Playa del Carmen.
In this area, you can easily find one-bedroom apartments for around US$900, with two-bedroom units starting at US$1,200. Homes generally feature two or three bedrooms, costing around US$2,000.
Adolfo Lopez Mateos
Adolfo Lopez Mateos, located south of downtown, is similar to 10 de April in terms of its neighborhoods’ close proximity to shops and other essential amenities.
Studios cost around US$500, one-bedroom apartments are approximately US$750, and two-bedrooms apartments start at US$1,000.
Cozumil
The Cozumel neighborhood is conveniently located near Sam’s Club and other shopping centers. Here, many homes are secured by walls, feature courtyards, and often include a swimming pool. The Malecon is about a 20-minute walk away.
Three-bedroom homes in this area range from US$1,200 to US$3,000, offering a variety of options within this price range.
Corpus Christi
Corpus Christi is home to a large American expat community, making it easy to connect and make friends. The area is about a 20- to 25-minute walk from Central Downtown, with a pleasant stroll along the Malecon. The neighborhood also features a local church and park.
However, transportation can be a challenge for those without a car.
In Corpus Christi, you’ll find two-bedroom apartments starting at US$1,000, while larger three-bedroom homes with a swimming pool and garden area range from US$1,400 to $2,500, depending on the age of the property.
One consideration for this neighborhood is the limited nearby services, such as restaurants and shopping, though beach access is just a short walk away.
Good To Know
Other housing considerations include utilities, housekeepers, and gardeners. Monthly gas costs average around US$25, and water is roughly US$10–$20. Electricity is billed every two months and ranges from US$35–$100, depending on air conditioning usage.
High-speed internet costs about US$25–$30 per month, depending on the provider. Housekeepers and gardeners charge approximately US$5 per hour, and if you have a swimming pool, maintenance adds around US$30 per month.
A good rule of thumb is that living outside the central area may not necessarily save on housing costs. However, you might need your own transportation if you choose to live farther out.
Healthcare
You’ll be glad to know that the healthcare system in Cozumel is well-suited for retirees. With an established expat community of more than 30 years, the healthcare system has kept pace with modern technology, offering comfortable hospitals, a wide array of specialists, and services comparable to those in the U.S.
Public Hospitals
IMSS Cozumel H.G.S.Z. No. 2 is an excellent option if you rely on IMSS. The hospital provides a wide range of services, from specialist consultations and ICU care to cardiovascular support, lab work, X-rays, and routine consultations.
Private Hospitals
Amerimed Hospital in Cozumel is part of a larger chain of private hospitals located in Mexico’s popular tourist areas. The hospital boasts cutting-edge medical technology comparable to those found in the U.S.
The facilities and services are regularly updated, and bilingual specialists are available, including cardiologists, traumatologists, urologists, and dermatologists.
Another excellent private hospital option in Cozumel is Hospital Costamed Cozumel. This facility also offers state-of-the-art equipment and has 41 specialists available to meet your healthcare needs. Bilingual doctors and staff are on hand, and the hospital provides attractive pricing for dental services.
Cozumel International Hospital is a top-rated private hospital on the island, offering a beautiful facility and the support of 12 specialists across various medical fields. They also have a hyperbaric specialist, ideal for handling any scuba diving or snorkeling accidents.
The hospitals’ facilities are continuously updated with the latest medical equipment and technology, and bilingual doctors and staff are available to assist you.
Dentists
While other retirement locations in Mexico may offer a wider selection of dentists, Cozumel has fewer options.
The top choices on the island are Dental Care Cozumel and The Dental Studio. Despite the fewer options of dental clinics in Cozumel, dental procedures on the island remain significantly more affordable than in the U.S., averaging about 30–35% less.
Activities
Cozumel offers a vibrant array of activities and communities for expats, from live music events and community groups to endless adventures on the Caribbean Sea.
Beaches
Cozumel’s best beaches are often found within beach clubs, which generally charge an admission fee as well as for food and drinks. These clubs are welcoming and mostly located along the island’s western and southern shores.
The eastern shore, in contrast, is largely undeveloped and offers open, natural spaces. These beaches can be rocky, are popular with locals, and require some form of transportation to access.
Water sports
Cozumel offers a plethora of water sports, with scuba diving and snorkeling as top attractions. The island is part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, the world’s second-largest reef, home to thousands of fish and coral species.
You can also spend the day windsurfing, surfing, or boating on the Caribbean Sea.
Yoga and Wellness
Most activities in Cozumel begin and end on the beach. You’ll find numerous yoga classes, wellness sessions, and massage treatments to help you unwind while enjoying the stunning ocean views.
Carnival
Starting in January, you can join the excitement of Cozumel’s Carnival by building your own float and training with a dance troupe to participate in the island’s iconic parade.
The festivities take place over Mardi Gras, culminating on Fat Tuesday. Each night, you and your friends can join the lively parades and enjoy the celebrations.
Walking Along the Malecon
There’s nothing better than a stroll along the Malecon to boost your cardiovascular system and lift your spirits.
The half mile corridor is located on the western shore of the island and runs past a variety of restaurants, shops, and the ferry terminal to Playa Del Carmen.
Mexican Cultural Festivals
A cherished tradition in Cozumel is the Festivals of Santa Cruz and El Cedral Fair, held in celebration of the 1848 Caste War of Yucatan. These festivals feature rodeos, traditional feasts, music and lots of tequila.
Other major holidays include Día de los Muertos, celebrated around Halloween, when colorful altars honor loved ones who have passed. The holiday season brings joy and thousands of lights to the town center and parks, while Independence Day in September is marked by vibrant festivities and a proud display of El Grito.
Iron Man Triathlon Series
The Ironman Triathlon Series stops in Cozumel each November, drawing numerous athletes who arrive early to train and acclimate to the climate and logistics.
In addition, a mini-triathlon held in September welcomes participants of all ages, offering residents a chance to join in the excitement.
Visiting Mayan ruins
Explore the island’s remaining Mayan ruins at San Gervasio. Arriving early allows you to avoid crowds and large tourist groups for a more peaceful experience.
There are also plenty of ways to volunteer in Cozumel.
You can join groups dedicated to cleaning the eastern beaches or helping monitor and mark new turtle nesting sites. The Red Cross is very active on the island, and the local humane society receives strong support from local businesses.
Transportation
Cozumel offers a variety of transportation options.
Some residents choose to walk wherever they need to go, aside from trips to the beaches on the island’s eastern and southern sides.
One major advantage of living in the central downtown area is the close proximity to everything you need, from grocery stores and entertainment to medical services.
Scooter
Another popular option is a scooter, with both new and used scooters available at reasonable prices. However, be cautious when buying used, as some may have been previously stolen and may not pass government identification checks for license plates.
Driving a scooter on the island requires caution, as many tourists rent them for the day upon disembarking from cruise ships. Despite this, scooters remain the preferred mode of transportation in Cozumel.
Car
You’ll find fewer cars for sale on the island, but owning one can be a great option if you plan to visit Cozumel’s more secluded beaches or make larger grocery runs at Sam’s Club.
Keep in mind, though, that parking is at a premium on the island.
Cozumel has only two gas stations, which tend to stay busy around the clock. Fortunately, scooters require minimal time to fill up, so the lines generally move quickly.
Cruiser Bike
Another convenient option is a beach cruiser bike outfitted with baskets, making it easy to shop and carry items hassle-free. Cozumel has numerous bike lanes that make getting around the island simple and enjoyable.
Many people ride their bikes to beach clubs and across the island with ease.
Taxi
Taxis are another convenient transportation option. Walking to the grocery store and taking a taxi back can help you save energy, and taxis are available to take you anywhere on the island for a fee. Expect to pay around US$3 per kilometer.
Cozumel taxis have rate sheets detailing prices between zones, so it’s a good idea to check the rate sheet before getting in.
Bus
Cozumel has limited bus service, mostly restricted to the main two-lane thoroughfares. However, buses are quite affordable, with one-way tickets costing around US$0.50.
Ferry
At times, island life may feel a bit isolated, so taking a trip to the mainland can be refreshing.
Three ferry lines operate across the channel to Playa del Carmen, running continuously from early morning until midnight. A one-way ticket costs around US$20.
Cozumel also has five large piers where cruise ships dock year-round, with a higher number of arrivals during the winter and spring months.
Airport
Cozumel’s international airport offers direct flights to Dallas, Houston, Miami, and several Midwestern cities during the winter months.
Safety
Cozumel has a close-knit community, and while general crime has increased over the past five years, the island remains relatively safe—partly due to the high volume of day-tripping tourists from cruise ships.
Moderate crime rates exist for home break-ins, vandalism, petty theft, and occasional scooter theft. However, serious crimes like robbery and mugging are rare.
There are certain times of the year when crime tends to spike, such as during Carnival, when pickpocketing and minor thefts are more common. It’s a good time to stay vigilant.
According to Numbeo, people feel comfortable walking Cozumel’s streets during the day 90% of the time, with that figure dropping slightly to 70% at night.
Overall, you’re more likely to encounter risks from scooter traffic than from serious crime.
You’ll find a tight-knit community on the island of Cozumel.
How Much Money Do I Need to Retire in Cozumel?
The cost of living in Cozumel is relatively affordable, with a minimum monthly income of around US$1,300 sufficient for basic living expenses. Keep in mind that most of your budget will go toward rent and groceries.
The graph below provides a breakdown of the cost of living across specific categories.
Should I Retire in Cozumel?
Here are a few pros and cons you should consider when deciding whether to move and retire in Cozumel.
Pros
- Cozumel offers a laid-back island lifestyle with abundant water sports, thanks to its Caribbean Sea location.
- The cost of living is more affordable than most other cities in Quintana Roo like Tulum, Playa Del Carmen, and Cancun.
- You’ll find all the essential comforts of the U.S. right on the island, along with vibrant nightlife and entertainment options.
- You don’t need to speak Spanish to retire here, thanks to the strong tourism industry and large American expat community.
Cons
- Weather does get quite humid during the summer and fall seasons.
- The town can get busy, with thousands of tourists arriving daily on cruise ships during the high season from winter to spring. However, most depart by evening.
- Prices of certain grocery items can be exorbitant, including imported cheeses.
- Living on the island can make you feel isolated at times, so you might need to take the ferry to the mainland every once in a while to get a nice break.
