Puerto Vallarta is an excellent place for retirees who are seeking a beach town with a big community.
Located along Mexico’s central Pacific coast, Puerto Vallarta was a quiet beach town until the 1960s, when the filming of Night of the Iguana, starring Richard Burton and Ava Gardner, put it on the map.
In the early 1970s, Puerto Vallarta became a major beach and tourist destination, thanks to government investment in infrastructure, including the construction of an international airport.
Despite the presence of megaresorts, much of the town’s original beach vibe remains, and many of the older neighborhoods are highly sought after by expats.
Today, the city is home to an expat community of approximately 45,000 during the winter high season, with around 15,000 staying year-round.
Puerto Vallarta offers everything needed for a comfortable lifestyle, from local and international cuisine to exciting nightlife, a relaxed atmosphere, and modern conveniences, including newer housing and ample shopping options.
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Contents
Location
Located along the central Pacific coastline in the state of Jalisco, Puerto Vallarta is a sister city to Guadalajara. The city sits at the foot of the Sierra Madre Mountains to the east and borders the state of Nayarit to the north.
Puerto Vallarta is 185 miles (298 km) west of Guadalajara and 525 miles (675 km) northwest of Mexico City. It is the second-largest city in Jalisco, after Guadalajara.
The 22 beach areas in Puerto Vallarta are stunning and are a major attraction for American expats, snowbirds, and tourists.
A convenient feature for travelers is Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport, which offers hundreds of flights each week to various destinations in the U.S. and across Mexico.
Weather
Many people enjoy Puerto Vallarta’s warm climate, but at just 15 feet above sea level, you’ll also encounter humidity. Here are the average seasonal temperatures:
- Summer: 90°F (32°C) and 77°F (25°C)
- Winter: 81°F (27°C) and 64°F (17°C)
Rainfall is heaviest in the summer months, averaging about 13 inches (328 mm), while the winter months see virtually no rain.
Due to the warm ocean temperatures, hurricanes, tropical storms, and tropical depressions are possible from time to time.
Food
Puerto Vallarta offers the perfect blend of lifestyle and leisure, with nearly everything you might need or expect in the U.S. The food options are endless, whether you’re cooking at home or dining out.
There are plenty of fast-food and quick-bite spots, with combo meals priced around US$10. A cappuccino at a local coffee bar costs about US$3.50, while at Starbucks, you can expect to pay upwards of US$5.00.
Puerto Vallarta also boasts a wide range of international cuisine, available in both casual and fine dining settings. Fresh, abundant, and delicious seafood is a particular highlight in the area.
Casual dining options around US$10 are plentiful in Puerto Vallarta. Try Maria Baja for seafood tacos and other treats, Salud Super Food for fresh salads, sandwiches, and wraps, or Traviesos Restaurant for traditional Mexican dishes with plenty of seafood inspiration.
For fine dining, you’ll find excellent options around US$40–50, including La Leche, Karuma, the Art of Grill, Gaviotas Restaurant, and Café des Artistes.
There are also plenty of dining options in the US$20–30 range in Puerto Vallarta, such as Juan Tiburon, Italian dishes at Vallarta Factory, and Asian specialties at Bonito Kitchen & Bar.
Street vendors are abundant along the beaches and in the older neighborhoods, serving tacos and other bites for under US$10 per order.
Grocery shopping in Puerto Vallarta is easy, with several options including popular national chains such as Soriana, La Comer, and even a Costco.
At larger grocery chains, you can expect to pay about 15–25% less for items compared to typical U.S. grocery stores.
Housing and Neighborhoods
Puerto Vallarta offers a diverse range of housing options, making it easy to find your ideal home. Several neighborhoods stand out to expats for their charm, convenience, and prime locations.
Centro or Downtown
The downtown area puts you right in the middle of everything, including the famous Malecon.
Many buildings date back to the 1800s, showcasing Spanish influences, such as the iconic Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe Church.
The streets are lined with statues, fountains, parks, boutique shops, and restaurants. Downtown also offers slightly more affordable rental options.
A one-bedroom apartment might cost around US$700, while a two-bedroom apartment is approximately US$1,500.
Conchas Chinas
Conchas Chinas (known locally as The Hills) is a ten-minute drive south of the Zona Romantica along Highway 200.
This area is unique, featuring several gated communities perched on hillsides with stunning Pacific Ocean views and a variety of modern architectural styles.
Rent for a one-bedroom apartment starts around US$900, while two-bedroom options can cost upwards of US$3,000.
Gringo Gulch
Gringo Gulch, where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor once lived, is a charming area situated along the Rio Cuale. It’s a bit hilly but offers superb views and brightly painted houses.
While there aren’t many restaurants or shops within walking distance, the area is known for its affordability. Two-bedroom homes rent for around US$1,200 — if you can find one available.
Emiliano Zapata (also known as Olas Altas)
Emiliano Zapata is an affordable option for those on a budget. Located on the outskirts of Zona Romantica, this neighborhood has a more traditional Mexican vibe, reflected in its food, local residents, and activities. It’s also just a short walk to the beach.
Rental prices are reasonable, with one-bedroom apartments starting around US$500 and two-bedroom apartments from US$900.
Marina Vallarta
Marina Vallarta is close to the airport and is part of a larger resort hotel area, offering easy access to golf courses, boating, and beaches. The neighborhood features modern construction, although rental prices vary depending on the building’s age.
A one-bedroom apartment here typically costs between US$600 and US$1,200, while two- or three-bedroom condos can range up to US$3,000.
Zona Romantica (The Romantic Zone)
Zona Romantica is located in the south-central area of Puerto Vallarta.
This vibrant neighborhood features narrow, cobblestone streets, a mix of older architectural styles and newer constructions, and a welcoming LGBTQ community. It’s also conveniently close to Playa Los Muertos.
Zona Romantica is filled with restaurants, clubs, and art galleries, and can be lively at times. Rent for a one-bedroom apartment averages around US$1,100, while a three-bedroom home costs approximately US$2,500.
Good To Know
Other housing costs in Puerto Vallarta to keep in mind include utilities, housekeepers, and gardeners.
Monthly gas costs average around US$25, while water typically runs between US$10–30. Electricity is billed every two months, ranging from US$50–200 depending on air-conditioning use.
High-speed internet costs between US$25–40 per month, depending on the provider. Housekeepers and gardeners charge around US$5.50 per hour.
Wages for household help are generally higher due to the presence of resort hotels in the area.
Housing prices can be higher in Puerto Vallarta’s central areas, thanks to beach access and proximity to the Malecon.
If you choose to live outside the central area, you may find more affordable options, but having your own transportation will likely be necessary.
Healthcare
Puerto Vallarta offers some of the best experiences, including excellent healthcare options.
The healthcare system here is modern, with updated equipment, advanced medical procedures, quality dental care, and well-equipped hospitals.
Thanks to Puerto Vallarta’s thriving tourism industry, many doctors, dentists, and specialists speak English, so language barriers are typically minimal and may only arise when booking appointments or at the front desk.
Drug stores are also easy to find throughout the area.
Public Hospital
Built in 2015, IMSS HZG 42 in Puerto Vallarta is a modern facility equipped with state-of-the-art medical technology, serving patients enrolled in IMSS plans.
The hospital provides care for a wide range of health issues, from broken bones and respiratory problems to cardiac emergencies.
Private Hospital
Puerto Vallarta is home to three outstanding private hospitals.
Vallarta Medical Center is a modern facility with a variety of specialists. It offers additional services such as laboratory work, consultations, surgeries, and a maternity ward.
CMQ Hospital Premiere features state-of-the-art medical equipment and a team of over 25 specialists. The hospital provides 24/7 medical care for all types of health needs. The bilingual doctors and staff make it easier for English-speaking patients, and they offer medical tourism programs, plastic surgery, and accept most travel insurance and private healthcare plans.
Hospiten Puerto Vallarta is part of a renowned international hospital chain and offers excellent facilities, including bilingual doctors and easy insurance options. Though it’s a smaller hospital with only 24 beds, including ICU beds, it provides top-quality healthcare with over 20 specialists on staff.
Medassist Hospital has been serving Puerto Vallarta for over 30 years and is continually updated with advanced technology. It has bilingual doctors and staff across 14 specialties, including neurology, otorhinolaryngology, urology, and traumatology.
These hospitals all accept health insurance for added convenience.
Dentist
Dentists in Puerto Vallarta are among the best in the country, with costs generally 35–40% lower than in the U.S.
Most dentists are bilingual, with top options including Dentoamerica, Armenta Dental Studio, and International Dental Center PV.
Activities
Puerto Vallarta is an ideal retirement destination, offering an abundance of activities to keep you active, feeling young, and enjoying your new role as a retiree. Let’s take a look at what you can do in Puerto Vallarta.
- Beaches: Located in Bahia of Banderas (Bay of Flags), Puerto Vallarta boasts 22 beaches, each with its own unique vibe. The most popular spots are Playa Los Muertos, Playa de Oro, Playa Camarones, and Playa Malecon. Puerto Vallarta is also home to eight Blue Flag beaches, ensuring environmental safety.
- Watersports: Puerto Vallarta offers a wide range of watersports, from snorkeling and swimming to boating and windsurfing. The ocean water here is warm, clean, and monitored for safety, especially at the Blue Flag beaches. Dive in and enjoy the fun!
- Yoga and Wellness: Many activities in Puerto Vallarta start and end at the beach. You’ll find a variety of yoga classes, wellness retreats, and massage treatments to help you relax while enjoying stunning ocean views..
- Golf: Puerto Vallarta has nine golf courses, with three standout options: Marina Vallarta Golf Club designed by Joe Finger, and Vista Vallarta Golf Club, featuring two courses designed by PGA legends Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf. Expect to pay between US$165–249 for a round.
- Walk the Malecon: There’s nothing better than walking the Malecon to help your cardiovascular system and lift your attitude. The one-mile corridor between Zona Romantica and Downtown is filled with fun things to do from people watching to gazing at art galleries to enjoying a libation or cup of coffee.
- Cultural Festivals: Major holidays in Puerto Vallarta are celebrated with vibrant traditions. During Día de los Muertos, households create colorful altars to honor loved ones around Halloween. The holiday season brings joy and thousands of lights, while Independence Day in September is marked by a lively display of El Grito.
- LGBTQ Events: Often called the “San Francisco of Mexico” for its inclusive and welcoming atmosphere, Puerto Vallarta is considered one of the most LGBTQ-friendly cities in the country. The LGBTQ community celebrates Pride Month in May with parades, music, and festive floats filling the streets, creating an ideal atmosphere for LGBTQ retirees.
There are plenty of opportunities to get involved in the community or volunteer with local organizations, such as the Red Cross or the local library.
Transportation
There are many ways to get around in Puerto Vallarta.
Car
If you don’t live in the central downtown area or within one of the walking neighborhoods near a beach or Malecon, you’ll need a car to get around the city.
Most roads are constructed with cement, asphalt, or a combination of both, so you won’t encounter many cobblestone streets while driving — though there are plenty for walking.
Streets in the downtown area can get congested during business hours and rush hour. Driving here may require a more assertive approach, as tailgating and speeding are common. Be aware that if you’re caught speeding, fines from local police can be hefty.
Main thoroughfares and highways are well-maintained, with few potholes.
Keep in mind that older condominium and apartment complexes may lack parking or secured parking.
Scooter and Motorcycle
You might consider purchasing a scooter or motorcycle. Motorcycles are permitted on all major thoroughfares, while scooters are restricted to city streets and are discouraged on highways and major roads.
Bus
Puerto Vallarta has a well-developed bus system that many local workers rely on for commuting.
Image credit: Jasperdo
There are specific bus routes serving the Marina and hotel/resort areas for employees. Don’t be confused by these routes; the driver will typically require work credentials for access to these areas.
Other bus lines serve popular shopping districts and beach areas. Buses are easy to identify, and passengers range from tourists to local families and workers. A one-way fare generally costs around US$0.60.
Taxis
Taxis are readily available, though the service comes at a price. A typical 5-mile ride costs around US$15–18. Some taxis use a zoned pricing system, so expect higher fares if you travel through multiple zones.
Airport
Puerto Vallarta’s international airport is another advantage, with direct flights to over 35 cities in the U.S.
Safety
Puerto Vallarta ranks well in safety and crime indexes, thanks in part to its high employment rate driven by tourism, which also contributes to higher wages.
You’ll notice a stronger presence of police and private security in tourist areas compared to larger Mexican cities like Guadalajara, Monterrey, or Mexico City.
Overall, you’ll feel safe living in Puerto Vallarta. Although crime has steadily increased over the last several years, the figure takes into account all crime activity in the surrounding area. Vandalism and petty theft are the only types of crime rated as moderate here.
Major crimes, such as robbery, homes invasions, or car theft are quite low compared to Mexico’s national average. That said, you should always use common sense when in unfamiliar areas or situations.
According to Numbeo, over 89% of residents feel comfortable walking alone during the day in Puerto Vallarta. At night, this figure drops to around 62%.
How Much Do I Need to Retire in Puerto Vallarta?
Puerto Vallarta has a higher cost of living mainly because of its tourist-driven economy. You’ll need a minimum monthly income of US$2,050 to live comfortably here.
Prices can vary significantly between high and low tourism seasons. This minimum amount may also fluctuate based on factors such as rent, transportation, groceries, and dining out.
The graph below provides a breakdown of the cost of living across specific categories.
Should I Retire in Puerto Vallarta?
Here are a few pros and cons to consider about moving to and living in Puerto Vallarta.
Pros
- You don’t need to be fluent in Spanish; a beginner level will usually be enough to get by without major issues.
- You’ll have access to all the conveniences of the U.S., including Costco and other large discount stores.
- The beach — life is always better by the ocean.
- A large American expat community provides support and confidence, and there’s also a sizable LGBTQ community if that’s part of your lifestyle.
Cons
- The cost of living is higher due to the tourist-driven economy.
- The climate is warm and humid, with a risk of major storms, including hurricanes and tropical storms.
- Puerto Vallarta is large and spread out, so owning a car is essential.
- During the high season, locals may treat you more as a tourist, and prices for goods and services tend to increase steeply.
