Mexico has the world’s largest American expat community, with most expats choosing locations already populated by fellow Americans. However, some people prefer a safe, convenient city that doesn’t yet have a large expat presence.
Merida is just that place. Here, you’ll find a cosmopolitan atmosphere comparable to Mexico City, Guadalajara, or Monterrey — without the crime, pollution, and congestion.
This colonial city, originally founded by the Maya and later conquered by the Spanish in 1540, is an emerging destination worth considering. With over one million residents, Merida has a relatively small but growing American expat community of about 6,000 people.
The smaller expat community shouldn’t be a concern. Merida offers everything you might need and more than some of the larger American expat hubs.
Though Merida is a big city, it retains a small-town feel as you get to know the locals and other retirees.
Merida is also one of the safest cities in Mexico. Year after year, this often-overlooked gem shines in categories like affordability, healthcare, lifestyle, cultural experiences, and cost of living.
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Contents
Location
Merida is the capital of the state of Yucatan, located in the northwest portion of the Yucatan Peninsula. The city has a semi-tropical climate and sits 30 feet above sea level, just 27 miles (43 km) south of the Gulf of Mexico and the town of Progreso. Playa del Carmen lies 179 miles (287 km) southeast, and Cancun is 191 miles (303 km) directly east.
A major advantage of Merida’s location is the Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport, which offers daily non-stop flights to many major Mexican cities and to the U.S.
Other transportation options are also underway, including the Maya Train, which will connect Merida to Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and numerous smaller communities to the south, offering easy access to ancient Maya ruins.
Weather
Due to its semi-tropical climate and the trade winds near the Tropic of Cancer, Merida experiences hot temperatures year-round.
From March through September, average temperatures range between 96°F (36°C) and 82°F (27°C). During the rest of the year, mean temperatures are slightly cooler, between 87°F (31°C) and 75°F (24°C).
Two potential drawbacks are the summer heat, which can reach up to 105°F (41°C), and the risk of hurricanes, tropical storms, or tropical depressions. The summer months also bring increased rainfall, averaging about 6 inches (156 mm).
Food
Merida offers an incredible variety of food, mainly due to its diverse population that includes local professionals, university students, and employees of multinational companies.
With influences from Maya, Spanish, European, Asian, and American cultures, Merida’s culinary scene is vibrant and full of surprises. The city is home to a wide range of gastronomic delights and the shopping options are second to none.
Fast food is readily available, with combo meals costing around US$9.50. A cappuccino at a local coffee shop is about US$4.50, though prices are higher at Starbucks.
Street food in Merida, often inspired by Maya cuisine, is delicious and affordable, with items priced around US$1–2 each.
Don’t miss the tacos made with poc chuc (marinated grilled pork) or cochinita pibil (marinated roasted pork). Other local favorites include salbutes and panuchos (fried corn tortillas topped with beans, meats, cheese, lettuce, and avocado) and tamales wrapped in banana leaves, which are super delicious.
Other cheap eats for US$10 or less include La Cubanita, Marlin Azul for seafood dishes, and Eskondida for pizza.
Merida’s casual and fine dining options showcase a rich blend of European, Asian, American, and Maya influences. For around US$20–30, you can enjoy mouth-watering meals at places such as Sanbravo, a Mexican steakhouse; La Chaya Maya, known for exceptional Latin and Mexican dishes; and Miyabi for sushi.
Fine dining options in the US$40–50 range include 130 Grados Steakhouse Merida, offering perfect wine pairings and ambiance; Picheta, which features Mexican-influenced nouvelle cuisine; and Yerba Santa Merida, specializing in Mediterranean and Italian fare.
Grocery shopping in Merida is convenient, with major chains such as Super Aki, Soriana, Bodega Aurrera, Chedraui Selecto located throughout the city, as well as a Costco to make you feel right at home.
Specialty foods are readily available at smaller markets, such as the Slow Food Farmers Market, La Queseria for specialty cheeses, Carnemart Francisco de Montejo for meats, and Mercado de Santa Ana for fresh vegetables, meats, cheeses, and seafood.
Grocery prices are generally 20–30% lower than in the U.S., though some specialty items may cost more. Overall, the cost of living in Merida remains quite affordable.
Housing and Neighborhoods
When you arrive in Merida, you’ll likely be pleasantly surprised by the reasonable housing costs without having to sacrifice amenities.
While newer developments may require a car or other forms of transportation, the historic center and surrounding neighborhoods are both affordable and charming.
El Centro Historico (Central/Downtown)
El Centro Historico is one of the most sought-after areas to live in Merida. The Spanish Colonial architecture is splendid, with many homes featuring courtyards, fountains, and gardens behind tall walls. Be warned, however, that the area can get loud.
El Centro Historico is likely to become one of your top choices to live, with one-bedroom apartments available for around US$800 and two-bedroom houses for about US$2,500.
Garcia Gineres
Situated within easy walking distance of El Centro Historico, this neighborhood boasts incredible architecture, from French Neoclassical and Modernist to Spanish Colonial styles. The area is dotted with small open spaces like parks and squares.
Housing here will cost you around US$650 for a one-bedroom loft, or you can choose a two-bedroom apartment starting at US$1,100.
Cholul
Cholul is a growing neighborhood just north of Merida’s outskirts, offering a range of newer housing options, from apartments and townhouses to single-family homes.
The area has plenty of modern strip malls and shopping centers nearby, but owning a car is essential.
Housing here is affordable, with three-bedroom houses renting for around US$1,250 and two-bedroom houses for about US$900.
Benito Juarez Norte
Located between El Centro Historico and northern Merida, Benito Juarez Norte offers plenty of amenities such as shopping and dining, and it’s only a 10-minute drive from El Centro Historico. This quaint neighborhood features affordable apartments and homes available for long-term rentals.
A one-bedroom apartment typically costs around US$650, while a two-bedroom apartment is close to US$1,000.
Dzitya
Dzitya is a newer neighborhood west of the city. While a car is essential, the area offers a wide range of housing options and access to newer infrastructure, including connecting roads to central Merida. Dzitya features open spaces, parks, a nearby shopping mall, and other convenient amenities.
Think of Dzitya as a suburban area, where you can find affordable homes, such as three-bedroom houses with swimming pools for around US$1,000 or two-bedroom houses for approximately US$700.
Good To Know
Other housing considerations in Merida include utilities, housekeepers, and gardeners. Monthly gas costs average around US$15, and water costs approximately US$10–20. Electricity, billed every two months, typically ranges from US$75–250, depending on air conditioning use.
Image credit: Bruno Rijsman.
Given Merida’s warm climate, homes with swimming pools will incur additional costs; expect about US$30 for pool maintenance, and potentially higher electricity bills.
High-speed internet ranges from US$20–35 per month, depending on the provider. Housekeepers and gardeners charge around US$3.50 per hour.
Wages for household help are generally higher in the area due to the number of nearby resort hotels.
Healthcare
The quality of healthcare in Merida is generally excellent, and there are many hospitals, pharmacies, and small clinics to choose from.
With numerous universities, trade schools, and a thriving international business community, Merida offers high-quality healthcare that is both accessible and reliable.
Public Hospitals
If you want to rely on IMSS for your healthcare, you will be happy to know that Merida is home to two IMSS hospitals, IMMS T-1 Ignacio Garcia Tellez and IMSS Hospital Juarez. Each hospital is fully equipped with modern medical equipment that can handle any type of medical procedure.
What’s more, most doctors and specialists in these IMSS hospitals are bilingual or multilingual. Staff members also have a good command of English.
Private Hospitals
If you have health insurance, you’ll find several top-rated private hospitals in Merida, including Centro Medico Pensiones, which offers comprehensive healthcare services, from ICU rooms and state-of-the-art operating theaters to a wide range of specialists.
Centro Medico de las Americas features a blood bank, adult emergency care, coronary care, and nuclear medicine. This 50-bed facility, established in 1984, remains up-to-date and has multilingual doctors and staff. It is affiliated with Mercy Hospital in Miami, Florida.
Starmedica, part of a larger chain of Mexican hospitals, is the newest hospital in Merida and a popular choice among American expat retirees. It provides treatment for a variety of illnesses, with modern recovery rooms that offer a comfortable experience for loved ones. The multilingual staff includes over 30 specialists to meet your healthcare needs.
Clinica de Merida is another favorite among American expats, offering bilingual doctors and 22 specialists. Conveniently located near El Centro Historico, it provides ICU facilities, modern medical equipment, MRI services, and cardiovascular treatments.
Dentists
Merida also offers excellent dentistry services, typically 40-50% cheaper than in the U.S. Some top-notch dentists to consider include Clinica Dental Del Sur, Evolution Dental Care, and Ideal Dental Center. Most dentists here also speak English.
Activities
Another reason Merida is a good place to retire in Mexico is the abundance of activities, so you’ll rarely experience a dull moment. Merida has a rich history of culture, traditions, arts, music, and adventure, and it proudly celebrates them all.
- Beaches: Drive or take a bus to one of the many beaches along the Gulf of Mexico coastline. With easy access to spots like the island of Holbox, Progreso, and El Cuyo, you’ll find tranquil stretches of sand, all within an hour of the city.
- Cenotes: Explore the Yucatan Peninsula’s stunning cenotes, or natural swimming spots in underground caves, which offer a refreshing escape from the summer heat. Nearby options include Cenote X-Batun and Dzonbakal, Cenote Mucuyche, and Santa Barbara Cenotes, all within an hour’s drive.
- El Centro Historico: The town center is a wonderful place to explore. As you stroll the streets, you’ll admire stunning historic architecture from the 16th through 19th centuries. Discover the unique history behind the churches, homes, fountains, and park spaces dedicated to notable leaders. Along the way, enjoy the local food and drinks.
- Performing Arts: Merida boasts several vibrant venues, including the Yucatan Symphony Orchestra. The Teatro Peon Contreras, a spectacular historic venue, hosts everything from opera and jazz to ballet and symphony performances. A Theatrical City is dedicated to showcasing contemporary plays and traditional Mayan productions.
- Ride the Mayan Train: Recently opened in Merida, the Mayan Train connects visitors to numerous Mayan ruins and ancient cities. You can also take a quick ride to Playa del Carmen or Cancun for a day trip.
- Cultural Festivals: Major holidays are celebrated with vibrant traditions. During Día de los Muertos, households create colorful altars honoring loved ones around Halloween. The holiday season brings joy and thousands of lights, while Independence Day in September features lively celebrations and a proud display of El Grito.
- Golf: The Yucatan Country Club features the Jaguar Golf Course, designed by Jack Nicklaus, while La Ceiba Golf Club, designed by Greg Norman, offers another superb option. Expect to pay between US$100–175 for green fees, depending on the day and time.
- Museums: Merida boasts eight excellent museums to explore. The Gran Museo del Mundo Maya is a standout, the Museo de Arte Popular showcases contemporary collections, and the Museum of the City of Merida delves into the city’s history from Pre-Columbian times onward.
There are plenty of other ways to stay busy, like visiting the Merida English Library, where you can check out English books and a variety of multimedia items.
It’s also a popular spot to meet fellow expats, share stories, and connect with the community.
Transportation
Navigating Mérida’s transportation landscape requires careful consideration, especially during peak hours when the central downtown area experiences significant congestion.
Car
Owning a car or motorcycle offers flexibility in choosing residential areas, potentially reducing your cost of living.
Mérida boasts numerous modern gas stations along major thoroughfares and within shopping malls. However, in the central downtown area, gas stations are scarce due to pedestrian-friendly street designs.
Recent infrastructure projects have alleviated congestion and spurred the development of affordable housing.
While scooters are suitable for inner-city travel, they are not recommended for long-distance rides
Bus
Merida’s bus system is sophisticated and highly affordable, with one-way tickets costing just US$0.15. Thousands of university students rely on the bus system daily, along with families and other working-class residents. The network includes numerous stops near business districts, shopping malls, and universities, making it a convenient option for many.
Airport
Another transportation advantage is Merida’s international airport, which offers direct flights to cities such as Houston, Miami, and Los Angeles, making it easy to plan connecting flights and travel abroad.
Safety
Merida consistently ranks amongst the safest cities in Mexico.
In the past five years, crime rates have risen more slowly here than in other large Mexican cities. Some analysts suggest this may be due to the strong cultural traditions of the Mayan descendants who live in Merida and surrounding areas.
Overall, living in Merida feels safe. The only crime that reaches a moderate level is corruption and bribery, while all other types of crime are rated from very low to low.
According to Numbeo, 92% of people feel comfortable walking the streets of Merida during the day. At night, this figure remains high, with 72% feeling safe walking alone.
How Much Money Do I Need to Retire in Merida?
You’ll need a minimum monthly income of around US$1,750 to live comfortably in Merida.
Most of your budget will go toward rent, transportation, dining out, and groceries.
The graph below provides a breakdown of the cost of living across specific categories.
Should I Retire in Merida?
Here are a few pros and cons to consider about moving to and living in Merida.
Pros
- The cost of living is very affordable compared to other large Mexican cities.
- Merida has a thriving business community of multilingual and multinational professionals.
- The city is close to beaches and exciting attractions, such as Mayan ruins, all within easy driving distance.
- The central downtown area showcases Spanish colonial architecture blended with the local Maya heritage.
Cons
- The climate is hot year-round, with the added risk of major hurricanes and tropical storms.
- The city is best navigated with a car or motorcycle.
- A moderate level of Spanish is recommended for daily interactions.
- The American expat community in Merida is relatively small.
